Other than what transpires around 2 a.m. on a summer’s night at many Cape Region bars, the actual Whiskey Rebellion occurred in the 1790s in response to an exorbitant tax on alcoholic beverages. Distiller Phillip Wigle was one of the instigators of the rebellion when he expressed his displeasure with the tax - and the tax collector - in a particularly physical manner. The Whiskey Rebellion ultimately pitted Western Pennsylvania distillers against 13,000 troops led by George Washington. So much for last call!
Wigle (pronounced “wiggle”) Distillery keeps Philip’s legacy (and his reportedly effective right hook) alive in Pittsburgh’s Strip District with local, organic and heirloom grains evaporated into made-from-scratch spirits. Last week, Michy’s Relaxed Dining chef/co-owner Richard Davis matched Wigle Distillery course-by-course in the made-from-scratch department, and I was pleased to be a part of that delectable showdown co-sponsored by Karen Clayton from Bacchus Importers LTD and our own Teller Wines, a landmark liquor store in Lewes.
A pre-prandial reception was properly lubricated with hot apple cider spiked with Wigle’s Landlocked Spice rum distilled from Pennsylvania buckwheat honey. We were particularly pleased when Rob Bagley (Michy’s bar boss and mixologist extraordinaire) offered us seconds.
Needless to say, it took them a while to coax us into our seats, but the effort was worth it, as Davis outdid himself with Asian-spiced lamb skewers accompanied by a bracing carrot and chile slaw. Bagley kept up with his boss by delivering a Wigle rye Manhattan. A bright red Campari ice cube floated therein, and as it melted, the cocktail morphed into a Boulevardier (like a Negroni, but without the gin). Nice touch, barkeep!
One of the highlights of the event was the ongoing patter of Wigle’s Wes Shonk promoting the distillery and his hometown of Pittsburgh. “We make in a year what Jim Beam makes in a day,” announced the properly bow-tied Wes. Every course sparked an interesting story recounted in an upbeat and engaging style. As plates of chipotle-encrusted beef tenderloin atop sweet potato puree began to arrive at the tables, Rob Bagley celebrated his love of cocktail history with a delicious whiskey sour (made with Wigle’s organic whiskey and rosemary lavender bitters).
As if that weren’t enough, Wigle’s Ginever, freshly squeezed lime, rosemary simple syrup and those bitters arrived at the table in the form of a Gimlet (already achieving notoriety as early as 1928). Ginever is the old-time Dutch term for the original form of gin. For the first 600 years, gin was made from whiskey in a copper pot still.
The invention of the modern industrial still, which produces vodka very efficiently, shifted the world gin market from this original, expensive-to-make Dutch-style gin to the British-style, vodka-based gin that lines the shelves today. Inspired by a 19th century Pennsylvanian distiller’s recipe, Wigle is singlehandedly working to bring back the copper pot back to the art of gin making.
Out of the fog of organic distillates and craft bitters appeared a homemade dessert created by Davis himself. At the risk of engaging in hyperbole (or has that ship sailed?), it was one of the most ridiculously good bread puddings I have ever tasted. This marriage of white chocolate, whiskey and a croissant was certainly made in heaven. Bar boss Bagley stepped up to the plate with a Wigle Mocha Porter Whim Sazerac.
Not unlike the one-off special-occasion beers offered by our local brewmeisters, a Whim is the same thing in the world of distilled spirits. This one-of-a-kind concoction is distilled from the ingredients that make up a dark, chocolaty porter. The dessert theme was echoed with a few drops of Wigle’s mole bitters and a glass washed with chocolate liquor.
Last week’s Wigle tasting at Michy’s Relaxed Dining was the quintessential dinner and a show, spotlighting the engaging humor and energy of young Wes, the chemical creativity of mixmaster Rob Bagley, the kitchen sleight-of-hand displayed by Richard Davis and the perpetually welcoming demeanor of his wife and restaurant namesake, Michelle. A good time was had by all.
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| Teller Wines’ Kevin and Catherine Hester (l-r), Wigle Distillery’s Wes Shonk, Michy’s top barkeep Rob Bagley and Bacchus Importers’ Karen Clayton celebrate a job well done and a meal well eaten. (That’s kitchen magician Richard Davis in the background between Rob and Karen.) |
The contributor of this pairings dinner, The Rehoboth Foodie, gives readers a sneak peek into the inner workings of the Delaware beach culinary scene, from farm to table and everything in between. He can be reached at bob@rehobothfoodie.com.
Reprinted with permission from the Cape Gazette newspaper, Lewes, Delaware: "The Business of Eating" by Bob Yesbek: 2/6/15
Reprinted with permission from the Cape Gazette newspaper, Lewes, Delaware: "The Business of Eating" by Bob Yesbek: 2/6/15