In light of the recent article in the Des Moines Register about the efforts of Templeton Rye to settle two class action consumer fraud lawsuits through mediation, it seemed a good time to make a strong statement on what can best be described as weak spirits.
A little over a year ago, sitting in a room at the American Distilling Institute convention in Seattle, listening to an industry type drone on about revenue and margins, it was hard to imagine there was once a time when producers made things for entirely different reasons. They were economical, to be sure, but they weren't based around ‘how much cash can be sucked out of this venture before we liquidate?’. In those days, that person usually got left in the sun for their bones to bleach.
The first thing any craft spirit acolyte should know is that there are labels out there who are marketing sourced spirits. Whether sourcing neutral grain spirits as the base for another product or simply buying aged whiskey in bulk, the economics behind the practice are the same. Sourced spirits are readily available, buying them is much cheaper than capitalizing a true production facility, and they can be sold at a very high margin with a little creative marketing i.e. labeling them as ‘craft’.
There are many places on the internet where you can go to read about why that is wrong, mostly relating to the fact its illegal. The U.S. Tax and Trade Bureau requires that location of distillation be included on any spirit label; failure to do so, truthfully, will likely result in a lawsuit. But that doesn't absolve anyone of the responsibility to actually read it.
The other fact is that some of these producers using sourced spirits make really exceptional stuff. Whistle Pig, a Vermont label based on Canadian whiskey, has received significant praise. The success of Templeton Rye itself is testament to its perceived flavor and quality. And if that is all you are basing your decision on, there is no reason not to drink it.
However, if your intent is to support something else, like your local micro-distiller or the Craft Movement, then supporting producers who make use of sourced spirits is counter-productive. Either way, the decision ultimately rests with you.
Fortunately, for those of us who strive to support companies that are working to change the spirits marketplace, and perhaps the world, there are lots of options, often right in our own backyard. Honest, hard-working producers like Dry Fly Distilling and TOPO Spirits whose business motivations and practices look beyond the bottom line. Companies whose owners are leaders in their communities and who have made difficult and substantial effort to do it right.
Our recommendation is to seek out and buy craft spirits from one of them. As always, MicroShiner is here to help you make the connection.
