The beginning of each new year always provides an excellent opportunity to take an assessment of both ourselves and the world in which we live. For patrons and practitioners of craft, the message to the spirits community in 2016 is clear: Our time is now! Artisanal distillers, brewers, fermenters and farmers have been pouring into the craft space from all walks of life, and the synergy of their passion and personal experience has exploded into a staggering wealth of unique and re-imagined libations. Navigating this new landscape of nearly endless options may seem daunting, but there is a sound strategy for success: start with something you love and see which new wrinkle suits your fancy.
In America's original colony, two acclaimed whiskey producers are doing just that, adding nuanced layers to a couple of traditional favorites.
Perched above the sleepy streets of small town Marion, Virginia, lies the Schumaker family farm, home of Appalachian Mountain Spirits and the Virginia Sweetwater Distillery. Brainchild of founder Scott “Mash” Schumaker, this small-scale production facility evolved out of Scott's foray into harvesting organic energy from potatoes, along with his deep appreciation for the centuries-old moonshining tradition of this lush, mountainous region. Earning awards and praise for his Sweetwater Moonshine and War Horn Whisky, Mr. Schumaker has recently unveiled an extraordinary fusion between the hills and hollers of his Appalachian backyard and the highlands of his Scottish heritage: Revelations Single Malt Corn Whisky.
Early Gaelic settlers were drawn to the area that would become Marion because of its similarities to their Highland homes, and Scott has drawn on those roots to imagine what a traditional Scotch distiller might come up with if tasked with using the local Virginian grains. The result is a Red Oak-smoked, 75% Corn / 25% Rye Whisky that has been aged in Bourbon barrels for three years and released in a very limited quantity. In the glass, Revelations holds a deep, amber hue and sweet, smoky nose that is somewhat reminiscent of caramelized bacon. As it meets the palate, the single malt feels smooth, almost syrupy, lingering low in the mouth and warming the back of the throat with each satisfying sip. At 95 proof, that heat is certainly potent, but the burn never detracts from the enjoyment of the Whisky, and the overall effect is to slice right through the line between an excellent Bourbon and a classic Scotch.
At the other end of the Commonwealth, and a fair bit closer to sea level, lies the Loudoun Valley and Purcellville, Virginia, base of operations for Catoctin Creek Distilling Company. Though the region is widely known as “D.C.'s Wine Country”, founders Becky and Scott Harris have carved quite a niche for themselves as whiskey producers, opening the first legal distillery in the county since Prohibition. With a strong focus on using only the highest quality ingredients, Scott and Becky's flagship offering, Roundstone Rye, is both organic and kosher, a 100% Rye Whisky. This purity results in a powerful nose that permeates the skull with expected verdant tones, accompanied by a trace of citrus.
Distilled at 92 proof, Roundstone is not overpowering through the lips, though the vapors from the alcohol rise sharply, as if compelled to fill the sinuses, creating the need for a hearty exhale after most sips. This acute, airy quality of the Rye is familiar, but heightened, perhaps due to the exceptional caliber of components or possibly from Becky Harris' influence as a seasoned chemical engineer. Whatever the cause, the Catoctin Roundstone's profile comes across as nearly too clean, carrying many of the grassy, even floral notes of a Rye, but not quite capturing the body and presence of an elite offering.
Returning to the Highlands of Marion, however, in Revelations Single Malt one does find that depth and richness at its core. The earthy undertones of toffee and molasses are complemented by hints of smoky vanilla, imbued by the Red Oak firing. The silky smooth Bourbon/Scotch hybrid is a true prize, especially in such short supply, and one can only hope that Mr. Schumaker sees fit to continue the line. While his operation may lack the polish and production capacity of its more metropolitan neighbors, “Mash’s Revelation” is head and shoulders above its Virginian peers.
Contributor Ian Gregory is a product of the 80's and a Tulane graduate, with a BA in History. Born and raised in Manhattan, NYC, he has called New Orleans home for the last 12 years.
With many nights behind a bar under his belt, Ian has appeared in the Where Y'at Best Bartenders of New Orleans Guide on 3 separate occasions. Now writing spirit reviews for MicroShiner, he doesn't have a twitter handle, but feel free to find him on Facebook
