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Colorado craft grain to glass micro-distillery spirits Tim Wenger

@timwenger1: Colorado Craft's Rising Star

Thursday, August 11, 2016
Recently, I spent some time hanging out at Denver’s Rising Sun Distillery. Within the first few minutes of being there, I noticed something missing - the air of testosterone that permeates most distilleries. As head distiller Kim Cavallaro worked a batch of mash set to eventually be enjoyed as Rising Sun’s Organic Vodka, co-founder and owner Dawn Richardson gave me the rundown on her business.


Rising Sun Distillery sits in one of the few areas of Denver not yet completely overrun by gentrification. Their building is just on the other side of Colfax from the soon-to-be-renamed Sports Authority Field at Mile High, on Zuni St. just north of 13th Ave. For those more familiar with Denver’s craft breweries, Rising Sun is two doors down from Strange Brewing Company. Together, the two provide the perfect pre-Broncos game party spot for anyone not lucky enough to get into the lots at the stadium. Co-founders Dawn and Sol Richardson opened their doors in January 2015, after spending nearly a year reworking their space inside an old industrially-zoned building to meet code for making booze.

“Having more women around wasn’t intentional, but it’s been a great asset,” said founder and co-owner Dawn Richardson. “But we did brand our product to be a little more feminine. I didn’t want another cowboy label. I mean we’re in Colorado, everybody’s got a cowboy label, right? Everybody’s doing whiskey, every brewery and every distillery has corrugated tin and barn wood. At this point, it’s almost like it’s a franchise.”

“I hear you,” I said. “A lot of distilleries do look exactly the same.”

“We do end up getting more women in here than men,” Dawn said. “I wanted to do something that felt different.”
photo by www.centennialspecialtytours.com
Kim, who started with Rising Sun shortly after the company’s founding and upon her completion of a culinary degree, doesn’t think of herself as a groundbreaker. For her, this is business as usual. Wine and beverage courses in school kicked off her passion for the liquid side of the art, followed by an internship with Englewood, CO’s Downslope Distilling. “While I was in culinary school I realized that my heart was more in beverage,” she said. “I absolutely loved it. It still had that creative aspect of cooking that I loved and a lifestyle that I felt I was able to sustain a little bit better.”

Luck played in her favor out. “When I graduated, I was looking for a distilling job at the exact same time that these guys were looking for their first distiller. I’m super proud of it because it is a unique position to be in,” Kim said. “I don’t think about it so much as being a woman; I think about how young I am. I’m only 23, and I’m taking things from grain to bottle and sending them out into the world, doing recipe development. It’s really exciting.”


Since forming Rising Sun in late 2014, Sol and Dawn have prioritized local and organic ingredients - often a daunting task. “I talked to the Colorado Department of Agriculture and they don’t know of any certified organic corn growers in Colorado, other than the Southern Ute Tribe,” Dawn said. “So our corn comes from western Kansas.”

“Western Kansas is probably closer to here,” I said, noting my time living in southwest Colorado a stone’s throw from the Southern Ute Reservation in La Plata County.

Making organic spirits in-house has been quite a process, fueled by a fire to be grain-to-glass and not one of the so-called faux-distillers. “When we first got in this we realized there are a lot of distillers who don’t make their own product,” Dawn said. “They buy bulk, put it in a bottle, put a pretty label on it. I’m like, if I’m going to do it, I’m going to do it right. I grew up always making everything from scratch. My grandma was a rancher.”

Dawn and Sol personally drive to Pueblo to buy the chilies they use in their green chili-infused vodka. They buy their peaches directly from Colorado’s peach Mecca of Palisade. “We’ve met our farmers,” Dawn said. “Having these local agricultural products is way better than I thought it would be. It’s really trendy right now, but it’s awesome. It's a little life cycle that we’re all involved in.”

The labor of love pays off. Rising Sun’s Organic Vodka just took home the silver medal in the Denver International Spirits Competition this year. The corn-based mash makes for a vodka that is exceptionally smooth. I’m not normally one to sip straight vodka, but I maintained both conversation and a straight face drinking Rising Sun.

 

“Because everything in this business is so customized, we end up working with a lot of other independent small businesses,” Dawn said. “Since we’re a small business, we just feed each other.”

“How about getting going?” I asked. “How was the permitting process and getting approval to build your space? I work with a music venue in town that has been working with the city for permission to build a rooftop patio for almost three years now. It’s been a nightmare.”

“We wanted to open in Denver, but in hindsight, we probably shouldn’t have,” Dawn said. “They’re a pain in the butt to work with. It took us nine months to get our federal permit to manufacture liquor, but it took eleven months to get the city approval for the building permits. We signed our lease here in May of 2013, we got possession in November of 2014, then opened our doors in January of 2015. We don’t have any investors, it’s just been the two of us. It’s been a challenge.”

“Has the reward been worth the risk?” I asked. Dawn, behind the bar, poured me sample servings of each of their spirits. I gotta say, that organic vodka does the trick.

“We met all of our projections for our first year,” Dawn said. “We got picked up by a distributor locally, and we’re talking to a distributor in the Phoenix area. We think that they’ll pick us up. We’re not where we want to be, though. The goal is for distribution. We built (Rising Sun) with expansion in mind, so we have room to put in one, maybe two more, distilling tanks.

Rising Sun rents space to the Jun Key Co-op, a collective of members who produce the Kombucha-like drink Jun as well as other organics, to do their bottling. Jun, actually, is how I connected with Rising Sun in the first place - the distillery provided the stiff part of the drinks at a farmer’s market event near my home where the Jun Key Co-op sells their stuff. “I think you can tell in our product and our cocktails how we approach the business,” Dawn said. “It’s a slightly different focus, with the creative element and community networking stuff. There’s an art to it.”

Risingsundistillery.com

Tim Wenger is a Denver-based microshiner, journalist, musician, and avid snowboarder. Check in with him at @timwenger1 and catch more of his work at Colorado Music Buzz, Snowboard Colorado, and his weekly talk show on worldviral.tv

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@timwenger1: Golden Moon on the Front Range

Thursday, August 6, 2015
In Spring of 2016, the residents of the Denver area will finally have rail service out to the far-flung airport on the eastern plains and better transit service for Aurora and east Denver. However, the metropolitan area and its residents absolutely need to continue investing in improved public transit. Slowly, but surely, we are heading in the right direction.


As anyone who has ever lived in a city knows, finding an adequate place to park your car is a nightmare. The metered spots, if you are lucky enough to find one, max out at two hours and when I am on a mission to get faded in the sun or reporting on an event for work, two hours is never enough time. The parking lots and garages are typically filled with business traffic, except for the ones next to Coors Field which cost an arm and a leg to park in.

I absolutely agree that drinkers such as myself should hold themselves to a standard of not driving sauced. With that in mind, we need to continue to fund sufficient alternatives. Not only for drinkers - we lushes certainly take a back seat to more pressing issues like cutting into the burgeoning traffic problem and ensuring that people of all walks of life are able to get to work, school, and about town independently. But there are three big things that, in my mind, are absolutely worth public investment - education, health care, and for goodness’ sake, public transit.

That said, I spend as much time as I can up in the Colorado mountains and to be honest, would much rather be there than in the middle of the concrete jungle. But I am, admittedly, a stalwart fan of a certain lackluster baseball franchise that generally seems more interested in installing rooftop party decks than winning games, and despite the frequent disappointment and significant frustration I can’t seem to stay away from the ballpark the way that all those anti-Monfort dissenters on the Colorado Rockies’ Facebook page are always calling for. Additionally, I spend a good 100 nights a year at concerts for both work and pleasure. With the season in full swing, downtown Denver just seems to have my name written all over it.

Denver’s strong craft market keeps me imbibing at a fairly steady pace no matter where I’m at so the idea of driving as any sort of fecund method of transportation tends to disappear from the realm of rational thought pretty quickly when I’m out. Unfortunately (in this one instance, at least), Denver is not New York or Paris or London or any other city with some semblance of efficient public transit. We do not have a subway system, - we have a mediocre light rail service that, after expansion in the past decade, currently services the south, southeast, and western metro area. Those seeking alternative transportation on Denver’s northern and eastern fringes are, in 2015, left to take the bus or a cab.

From where I live on the edge of Lakewood and Golden, getting home after a night out in the city requires either a light rail trip and a stiff walk or a $50 cab ride. While most of the nightlife happens further east, I made the decision to buy at the base of the foothills because I’d much rather see mountains out my windows than skyscrapers. The area, though, is quickly growing in terms of options for us scofflaws. Awhile back I talked about C De Marra, a whiskey bar I have now visited several times to sip on their in-house barreled whiskeys. A few months ago at the DStill grand tasting , I had my first taste of locally made absinthe from Golden Moon Distillery, and in talking with the crew on hand found out that their distillery is less than ten minutes from my house.

I ventured out there a few mornings back when I woke up thirsty after a late night show. The distillery is tucked away in the back side of an old office building. No big sign, not much parking, very humble appearance. Clearly the type of place that lets its’ product do the talking.


Proprietor and distiller Stephen Gould and his team welcomed me in and treated me to a full tour, led by Assistant Distiller Joey Stansfield.


Gould, not one to be shy when it comes to talking absinthe (or any type of spirit, really) then sits me down at the bar in their small on-site tasting room (they also run a speakeasy a few minutes away that serves all of their products) and begins sharing his story and that of his business. I came into this place a novice in the world of absinthe, but after spending some time with Gould I am confident that I can now hold my own should I encounter a situation in which the green dragon enters the conversation.

“You wonder why artists and poets and writers drink absinthe,” Gould says. “It’s because they like to relax and hang out in cafes and think deep thoughts and talk about deep concepts, and absinthe is just a real pleasant, slow, mild buzz.”

I’m hooked already. But doesn’t absinthe make you trip? Won’t you lose all control of bodily function and end up lurking around aimlessly, mumbling nonsense at a fence post?

“Most of what people know about absinthe is huey,” Gould says, explaining that absinthe is something that is meant to be sipped over a period of time, not consumed rapidly. The stuff even has an underground network of enthusiasts called HG’ers; a group of distillers and guzzlers around the globe that, upon a little research, seem interested in not only consuming absinthe but who have wholly devolved into a frenzied culture of wormwood activists seeking to set the record straight on their drink of choice.

“I have a hobby where I junk for booze,” says Gould. “I find old, weird, rare booze all over the world - antique stores, garage sales, thrift stores. I’ve got stuff that goes back 80, 90, 100 years.” I then listened as he told me that he has claimed to friends that he is not an HG’er, but was called out. I think I’ll side with his friends on this one.

Gould uses some of these old products as inspiration for some of the spirits at Golden Moon - the base of his R&D department. For him, it all started up in the Motor City. “I stumbled across, in the Detroit area, about fourteen years ago a case of Spanish absinthe. One of the big brands of the mid-20th century in Spain. What happened between 1912 and 1915 when Switzerland and then France banned absinthe was a number of your big producers of absinthe all moved their distilling operations out of France into Spain. Most of the brands were run out of business.”

Gould is by now an experienced entrepreneur, having started and ran multiple businesses both in the food and beverage industry and outside of it. He got his start in the craft beer world in his twenties. “I grew up working in restaurants and bars,” says Gould. “When I got out of graduate school, me and two friends decided that we were going to open a microbrewery. We were serious homebrewers. We went out and raised the funds and opened a brewery that down the line failed miserably. But it was a really great learning experience.

“At that time, we explored getting a basic federal permit to distill whiskey as well, and that’s where I actually made my first distilled product which was a malt whiskey. We basically took a beer mash and ran it through a laboratory still. It tasted horrible and we had no idea what we were doing, but that was 25 years ago.”

According to Gould, much of this Spanish absinthe was smuggled out of Spain into Canada, eventually down to Detroit via Windsor. “I’ve actually got a postcard from about 1975 from the Oxford Steakhouse, which still exists, advertising their absinthe cocktails as hangover cures.” Gould was working for Ford Motor Company at the time. He had tasted other absinthes and sworn to himself he would never drink it again, until he tasted this Spanish absinthe. Intrigued, he began to do some research. A couple weeks later he came across an antique encyclopedia containing old absinthe recipes. “If it wasn’t for this book, I probably wouldn’t be here right now. I started to flip through it and I thought to myself, ‘I know how to distill. I understand this and that and the other thing, I can make absinthe.’ The reality is, I didn’t have a frickin’ clue what I was doing.”

As time (and distilling experiments) passed, Gould became friends with a group of HG’ers. “I ended up meeting some very, very talented distillers,” Gould says. “They were really kind and took me under their wing and taught me the skills and steered me in the right direction.” He kept working on his recipe, something Stansfield says has taken well over a decade, until he felt confident enough to bring his product to light.


Since the birth of the concept in the late nineties, Gould’s absinthe has gone on to win awards all over the world. He has met and traded bottles with many of Europe’s most renowned absinthe creators. These days, Gould has an entire team working with him at his small Golden distillery, as well as the Golden Moon Speakeasy at 1111 Miners Alley in Golden, CO. “The reason that we are growing and are as successful as we are is because we’ve been able to recruit and build the team that we have,” says Gould.

Golden Moon Distillery, currently distributing in six states, has reached its capacity at the current location and will be expanding into another building in the next few months with the ability to double its production. Currently the distillery produces 18 different products in house, and distributes another sourced product called Gunfighter Whiskey. “We are selling everything we make,” Gould says. “We have limited distribution in three countries. We have won awards all over the world with our distilled products.”

Gould and his team distill and market a line of brandies that are all produced in Colorado fruit-to-glass. They have a Sweet Cherry Bitters, and their Colorado grain-to-glass single malt whiskey is currently resting in small casks in the distillery and set for release later this year. They also make two different gins. And, of course, their famous absinthes; Gould is now working on a new absinthe product made with Colorado-grown wormwood. For a full list of Golden Moon’s exceptional products, visit www.goldenmoondistillery.com.



After all this wormwood talk and a few hefty tasters, I step outside with an unopened bottle of Golden Moon’s Colorado Apple Jack, pull out my car keys, and find myself suddenly envious of those living in New York or Paris or London. I stand there in the parking lot, gazing west at the Rocky Mountains, many of the jagged peaks still snowcapped from late season storms, and quickly come back to my senses to happily call a cab.


Tim Wenger is a Denver-based microshiner, journalist, musician, and avid snowboarder. Catch more of his work in Colorado Music Buzz, Snowboard Colorado, and his weekly talk show on worldviral.tv
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Charbay Winery and Distillery

Friday, November 22, 2013
Charbay Winery and Distillery by Brian Cary.












Learn more about Charbay's line of spirits in the upcoming Autumn issue of MicroShiner magazine.
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2013 Independent Spirits Expo

Monday, September 16, 2013

Announcing the 2013 Chicago Independent Spirits Expo and Chicago Craft Spirits Week!

Last year's event was a huge success with over 80 suppliers & distributors serving over 400 artisanal and independent spirits from around the world (including the USA, Canada, Spain, Sweden, Holland, the Caribbean, South America, Japan, India, New Zealand, Germany, Holland, France, and Australia) to over 800 key bartenders, F&B managers, bar owners, retailers and spirit aficionados from all over the Midwest. Spirited events were held all over town with the help of local distillers out to promote the craft movement!

This year the event will be held on Wednesday, September 25th, 2013, with a VIP Tasting Session (5pm-6:30pm) and General Admission Tasting Session (6:30pm-9:30pm) at an all new venue: THE CHICAGO HILTON HOTEL & TOWERS (720 S. Michigan Ave.)

For tickets, visit Etix.com here

General Admission $60 6:30- 9:30
Includes 20 Sampling Vouchers

VIP $75 5:00 - 9:30
Includes 30 Sampling Vouchers

Extra vouchers $10 for 10 - all vouchers sales go directly to charity partners of the Independent Spirits Expo

For the latest info, visit their Facebook event page here


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Better Days

Thursday, September 5, 2013
If you've read our magazine then you already know that if there is one thing we like almost as much as craft spirits, its craft music. Fortunately for us, in a stroke of sheer genius, Fort Collins micro-distiller Feisty Spirits has merged our two loves into one delicious concoction: Better Days Bourbon
Here is their press release:
Feisty Spirits, Fort Collins’ first distillery, has collaborated with the indie rock band Fierce Bad Rabbit to create “Better Days Bourbon,” released today, which was named after the band’s song by the same name. The song, co-written by lead singer Chris Anderson and viola player/vocalist, Alana Rolfe, is featured on Fierce Bad Rabbit’s 2012 album, “The Maestro and the Elephant.” 

“We had been looking for a way to start working with the music community and when this idea was presented, it was interesting to think of working directly with a band to create a new product,” said co-founder and co-owner of Feisty Spirits, Jamie Gulden.

The band, comprised of Anderson, Rolfe, drummer Max Barcelow, and bass guitarist Dayton Hicks, met with Gulden earlier this year to do a tasting night at Feisty Spirits, sampling different whiskeys and ingredients to note particular flavors and assist in the selection of what would go into Better Days Bourbon. The company uses mainly locally and regionally-sourced ingredients that are organic, including several unique and ancient grains such as quinoa and millet.

“We’re excited to do this project,” said Chris Anderson. “We love good bourbon and to have our song represented in this way is very special to us.”

The limited-release bourbon will be available at Feisty Spirits, 1708 E. Lincoln Ave., and select liquor stores and bars in the Fort Collins area beginning this week. The label of the product features design work and an original painting by local artist, Susanna Dominguez, and the back label has a QR code that offers a free download of the song “Better Days.”

For more information, contact: Jamie Gulden, Feisty Spirits, 970.481.4026 or Dawn Duncan, Mgr., Fierce Bad Rabbit,970.980.6399.
www.feistyspirits.com
www.fiercebad.com
Look for our review of both band and bourbon in the upcoming Autumn issue of MicroShiner magazine


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3rd Edition of Guide Released

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Third Edition of Only Guide to North-American Micro-Distilleries is Released
David J. Reimer, Sr., Released 3rd edition of Micro-Distilleries in the U.S. and Canada

David J. Reimer, Sr., released the third edition of Micro-Distilleries in the U.S. and Canada, the only guide dedicated to North American micro-distilleries. Published by Crave Press, the book is available in print and as a full color e-book.

Micro-Distilleries in the U.S. and Canada is the definitive guide to micro-distilleries, perfect for fine spirits connoisseurs or novices pouring into the spirit world and for anyone who wants to find great spirits while traveling.  It’s also a great resource for anyone who wants to start their own micro-distillery.

MicroLiquor.com calls this first guide to North American micro-distilleries a “must read,” DrinkUpNY.com calls it, “an excellent guide to the interesting world of craft spirits,” and Drink Me Magazine calls it, “the most comprehensive book cataloging the hundreds of craft distilleries.” Also, SpiritReview.com’s Chris Carlsson describes the book as, "Well written, a great read, and a massive amount of interesting details on every distillery. No where will you find a more comprehensive yet accessible reference on this subject in one well laid out book.”

This updated edition includes information on more than 450 micro-distilleries from all 50 states and across Canada, hundreds of photos of bottles and labels, and information such as:
·         Locations and hours, and tours and tasting times
·         Websites and social media
·         Spirit descriptions, prices, and distribution
·         Interesting facts and historical anecdotes

The book also includes a listing of spirit festivals, events, and museums; a listing of distilling associations and guilds; an index by spirit type; and additional spirit information and resources.
The book is available on Reimer’s website, Amazon, and Barnes and Noble’s website.
Reimer has participated in many book signings and distillery events since the release of the first edition of the book, and he plans to continue these events with the release of the third edition. For example, he has been a featured author at the 10th anniversary of Tales of the Cocktail, a celebrity author at Spirit Journal’s Ultimate Blast, and a NYC Indy Spirits Expo participant.
“It’s an exciting time to be in the micro-distilling industry because it’s exploding. That has made working on the book so much more exciting. My favorite part of writing this book was talking to the owners of the micro-distilleries and learning about their passion for their products. They put quality above quantity to make the best spirits possible. Their passion for their products combined with my passion for writing went hand in hand,” said Reimer.
In addition to writing this book and working on other book projects, Reimer is an accomplished journalist and photographer. His articles and photos have appeared in his local newspapers, in professional and consumer publications, and in textbooks.


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The Expanding Craft Spirit Portfolio

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

There is a big conversation on the tip of the tongue, or at least in the back of the mind, of everyone in the spirits industry. You overhear snippets of it here and there, in Facebook updates and blog posts, but as of yet no one has thrown it out on the ground and let the wolves at it. It’s our dirty little secret, and nobody is quite prepared to air the laundry.

Well, neither are we.

Although we are currently researching and developing a feature on the subject, the distinction between micro-distillers (i.e. those who make spirits from raw materials such as grain or molasses) and craft spirits (i.e. those who source neutral grain spirits and use this as their starting point), and whether such a distinction is even necessary, is a discussion not to be entered into lightly. But it is an important one, and if greater transparency between producer and consumer is one of the underlying precepts of this movement, which we believe it is, then any dialogue on the matter is certainly worth the while.

Another aspect of the evolving spirit paradigm is the variety of scenarios by which micro and craft spirit producers launch and succeed. From tiny stills bootstrapping in garages to turn-key operations backed by the industry’s traditional players, small batch producers run the gamut. And as craft spirits gain popularity and claim market share, interest in them, from every quarter, will only intensify.

One example of this increased attention is the recent addition of a “craft spirit” segment to the T. Edward Wine portfolio. A loosely defined collective of vintners and purveyors, T. Edward has been stocking finer outlets with select wines from their NYC headquarters since 1994. Only recently, they announced their expansion into craft spirits, and they are now hosting labels from The Noble Experiment NYC, Roundhouse Spirits, Suerte Tequila, and Industry City Distillery.

What this means to the producers is obvious, but what it might mean to consumers is amorphous at best. In their press release, T. Edward cites “integrity, transparency, innovativeness and taste” as their criteria for both producers and process, which to us seems like a perfectly good place to start.
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TOAST - 2012

Thursday, March 21, 2013
This weekend, the Oregon Distiller's Guild will host TOAST, the Oregon Artisan Spirits Tasting, in Portland. Billed as, and quite likely, the largest public craft spirits tasting in North America, TOAST will feature over 50 small batch producers pouring over 100 different spirits, from absinthe to whiskey.

Held on the sky bridge level of the World Trade Center in Portland, OR, the event runs from 3-8 pm both Saturday and Sunday. The $49 pass ($40 advanced tix available online) includes spirit and cocktail samples, an Oregon Distillers Guild branded tasting glass, and a buffet.

We highly recommend this phenomenal event. Tell them MicroShiner sent you!




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Greetings and Salutations

Friday, June 1, 2012

Welcome to MicroShiner, the definitive guide to the world of craft spirits and micro-distilleries. Our goal is to promote and advance the micro-distillation and craft spirit market by engaging connoisseurs and casual enthusiasts alike with a top-shelf interactive media experience that mirrors the high degree of craftsmanship found in the distilleries and spirits that are our focus.

With each new edition, MicroShiner will showcase the very best micro-distilleries, boutique spirits, and purveyors of fine liqueur that the world has to offer. Features will include articles on individual micro-distillers and liqueurs, as well as stories and essays on the lifestyle, culture, and industry surrounding craft distillation and boutique spirits.

We hope you will join us as we explore the best of what the world of spirits has to offer, and hopefully lead you to enjoy the efforts of a micro-distiller located right in your own backyard.
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